The rail line from Nimes to Clermont-Ferrand (red line) is called "The Cevennes" as it crosses through the spectacular Cevennes mountains. It follows the Lozère and Gard valleys in the Languedoc-Roussillon region and the Allier valley on the Atlantic side. There is 106 tunnels and and numerous viaducts. The highest viaduct is 72m and the longest is 409m. The longest tunnel is 1728m. The highest point is 1018m above sea level.
It is now a minor rail line so we did not expect a long train. It turned out to be two carriages long and not a lot of passengers. The train was a diesel-electric as this line is not electrified all the way to Clermont-Ferrand.
It may have been small but was as comfortable as the regional trains we had previous travelled on. We were able to store our baggage across the isle from us.
The train backed out of Nimes and we thought that we would be travelling backwards for the next 5 ½ hours. Ten minutes later the train stopped and the driver changed ends.
Once more Roses’ France Road Atlas was opened and we tracked our progress through some of the best scenery we had seen on this trip. Fast flowing rivers, majestic mountains, deep gorges and rustic villages with tunnels and viaducts to add to the spectacle.
Leaving Nimes we immediately started climbing and leaving the coastal plain behind. The vineyards gradually gave way to dairy cattle and mixed farming. We were able to study the landscape as we travelled at a leisurely pace, not like an Intercities or a TGV train.
One thing we did notice at the entrance to each tunnel was that the length of the tunnel was given. The entry to each tunnel was announced by a two rising blasts from the train horn and the exit by two descending blasts.
Road bridge across the Allier River at Chapeauroux
As we had a 12 minute connection at Clermont-Ferrand for the trip into Paris, we were keeping an eye on the times as we left each intermediate stop. About an hour into the trip we were 3 minutes behind and we maintained that delay until we had to wait at least 10 minutes for a railcar to pass our train at La Bastide - St-Laurent as we were now on a single track and the trains could only pass at stations.
This concerned us a little bit but we did have alternative trains from Clermont-Ferrand to Paris.
We were now past the highest point on the line and we were now following the Allier River north towards Clermont-Ferrand.
Poutès Dam with salmon lift.
We were informed by the Conductor that the Intercities train would be held at Clermont-Ferrand to allow the passengers with connections to Paris to board the train. We also got the message that the transfer would be quick.
As we approached the station, I moved our baggage to the doors of the carriage and we were out of the doors as soon as they opened. Several SNCF staff were supervising the transfer and I asked one if the Paris train was the one on the next platform. It was, so we had to negotiate the stairs down to the passenger tunnel and then the stairs up to the platform where the Paris train was waiting.
The staff member saw that Helen was having problems with her baggage and, having grabbed her bag, proceeded to run down the stairs, along the tunnel and up the stairs to the platform with me in slow pursuit.
When he got to the Paris train, he threw Helen's bag into the first open carriage door which happened to be four carriages from the one where our seats were located. We had no option but to follow Helen’s bag, pick it up and drag all our baggage to our seats. As a result, I have no idea what the station at Clermont-Ferrand looks like.
For the 3½ hour trip into Paris we had comfortable leather reclining seats. We arrived in Paris at peak hour traffic. As it was a 4k walk to our hotel "Le Clement," we lined up for a taxi. After that taxi ride, I don’t believe there are any traffic rules in Paris.
The street in which the hotel was located presented some problems for our taxi driver as it was one-way both ways, that is to get into the street, you had to enter it at a tee intersection half way along and turn left or right.
The hotel and room were small, but comfortable. The lift would have to be the smallest in the world, just big enough for one person and one bag, two bags if you stacked the bags end on end.
At least we could get a little rest before we tackled Paris.
Loved reading your post Jim.
ReplyDeleteYes we have experienced similar small sized lifts in our accommodation on our travels too, but always pleased when there is a lift!!
Tell you what though - we were impressed with the station when we arrived in Spain, very modern and a lift up from the platform, no lugging cases up stairs.